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http://www.litoltda.com/pharmacy.php?new=viagra-price-compare&nr=132 Sample text

All these jigs were detailed in Volume 1. Calculating dimensions The overall dimension of the piece we will make for this project is shown in the following figure. Similar to many of the pattern projects in Volume 2, in this project the jigumi kumiko have a 75 mm pitch, and the outer framing kumiko are set at a 14 mm pitch from the jigumi kumiko. [Fig-50] Kikkō-nishiki dimension details When working out the size of the internal hexagonal patterns, I wanted the pieces making up the sides of the hexagon to be close to the same size for a balanced shape, taking into account the mitsuke of the jigumi kumiko, and if possible, I wanted the angles at which the pieces joined together to be such that I could use jigs that I already had.

These joints are not quite as strong as the jaguchi, but provided you cut the pieces with the correct amount of tension, their strength is more than adequate. I’ll include diagrams for both methods of making the kiri—simplified and traditional—so you can have a choice, but I’ll only give instructions for making the simplified version, because this is the method I advise you to use. This will also give a solid base from which you can try the more traditional and complex version at a later stage if you prefer.

The kumiko ends can be already trimmed on the 45° jig, as I have done here, or left at a straight 90° end at this stage. [Fig-80] Place the kumiko in the cutting jig and mark Cut the joint as normal… [Fig-81] Cut the joint Then cut and trim the other end to about 32 mm. Once the ends are equidistant from the joint, it is then simply a matter of trimming both ends equally until the locking piece fits securely in place. This step is critical, because if the joint is not in the exact center, it will not be in line with the corners of the pattern squares, so work carefully and take your time.

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